Answered

hi, newbie for solar

Posted by jcmontana

Jul 26, 2018 at 8:27am

HI, name is Jim, I live in Montana and just purchased a 2014 E250 Ford van that has the start to a solar system. I am just getting ready to wire and insulate the van and I know ZERO about solar and know very little about 12v elec. systems. System seems to work great,,but other then the smiley face on the mt50 I have know idea whats going on. Seems as though the man I bought the van from spared Know expense with the components.

 Am retired general contractor and have wired a few homes but not in years, so have general concept of wiring but am not an electrician by any means.


I would like to explain the solar system I have and hopefully you folks can answer a few questions for me.


Have 3 100 w eclipse panels on the roof.

wired into a commander 40a mppt charger w/mt-50.

with a Blue sea systems ML-ACR charging relay #7622.

into a Lifeline GPL-8DL 255 AH gel battery.

2 very large copper fuse's.

and a Blue Sea fuse block.


So far all that is wired into the setup is an ARD refrigerator(works great), a fantastic fan and a usb port for charging cell phone.


I will be adding a 12v  7.5 amp flojet water pump---about 32' away counting +&- run length.

adding several 12v LED light fixtures.

a 12v interior adjustable fan.(The one I am looking at runs from 9-18 w)

and an exterior moveable LED bar light for light at campsites,(just long enough cord to go out the passenger window and hang from the solar panel rack).


I will have a lot of questions but will start with a couple at a time.


1: he has the fuse block connected directly to the battery with what looks like 14ga wire. Is this correct? (about 2' leads).

2: I read you need a DC filter in line somewhere, do I? and if so where and how and what?

3: I think the flojet needs 10g wire, does this connect to the fuse block or direct to battery with inline fuse?

4: I have been flabbergasted trying to figure out wire sizes for the parts I am adding to the van, should I just run 12g for all I am doing(other then flojet) and not worry about wire size, would be a huge mental relief for me.


Thanks, and any info is much appreciated.



Posted by tattoo

Jul 26, 2018 at 8:44am

Well there you go Admin I'll let you jump in and answer this one.....

But I will say the bigger the wire the better especially the further the wire goes...

I believe the DC filter is for a stereo....


It sounds like a nice system to me but your going to need more batteries and panels when you start adding stuff to draw off the system.........

Posted by me

Jul 26, 2018 at 9:43am

jcmontana, first I would direct you to rv.net, their tech forum for all these non solar questions www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/listings/forum/39.cfm

yes, the fuse block connects directly to the battery
the flojet generally has a 7.5A in line fuse, you could use a 7.5A fuse in the fuse block and run 14g or bigger wire to it.
good rule of thumb for wire size for general purpose, 10g up to 30A, 12g up to 20A and 14g up to 15A

Posted by jcmontana

Jul 26, 2018 at 11:10am

ok, thanks for the tip about posting non solar questions,sorry folks.
thanks for the other info.

Posted by Jim

Jul 26, 2018 at 1:05pm

jcmontana Avatar

Jul 26, 2018 at 11:10am jcmontana said:

ok, thanks for the tip about posting non solar questions,sorry folks.
thanks for the other info.


jim, post anything ya like, there are more resources and helpful folks elsewhere!

Posted by grumpy

Jul 26, 2018 at 4:20pm

I found this several months ago jcmontana, really helped me with the wiring size www.enerdrive.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Cable-Chart.pdf also check Blue Sea Systems there is a wealth of knowledge for 12 volt systems.

Posted by jcmontana

Jul 27, 2018 at 9:39am

Thanks for the great tips folks, the elec. charts are great.

Posted by v10

Jul 27, 2018 at 7:05pm

I am also new to solar but I have wired quite a few vans.

My philosophy is to overkill on the wire size and fuse everything with the recommended fuses.

Wire is cheaper than an electrical fire.

Posted by jcmontana

Jul 30, 2018 at 9:10am

v10,,how do you figure out the recommended fuse sizes,,

Say for two LED light fixtures controlled by a single dimmer switch when the dimmer switch will be a total of 32 feet away counting + & -.

Or for my 7.5 amp flojet, is that a 7.5 amp fuse ?

Electrical is a huge week point for me.

thanks

Posted by Guest

Jul 30, 2018 at 10:16am

what are fuses for?

Posted by Admin

Jul 30, 2018 at 5:25pm

jcmontana Avatar

Jul 26, 2018 at 8:27am jcmontana said:

HI, name is Jim, I live in Montana and just purchased a 2014 E250 Ford van that has the start to a solar system. I am just getting ready to wire and insulate the van and I know ZERO about solar and know very little about 12v elec. systems. System seems to work great,,but other then the smiley face on the mt50 I have know idea whats going on. Seems as though the man I bought the van from spared Know expense with the components.

 Am retired general contractor and have wired a few homes but not in years, so have general concept of wiring but am not an electrician by any means.

I would like to explain the solar system I have and hopefully you folks can answer a few questions for me.

Have 3 100 w eclipse panels on the roof.

wired into a commander 40a mppt charger w/mt-50.

with a Blue sea systems ML-ACR charging relay #7622.

into a Lifeline GPL-8DL 255 AH gel battery.

2 very large copper fuse's.

and a Blue Sea fuse block.

So far all that is wired into the setup is an ARD refrigerator(works great), a fantastic fan and a usb port for charging cell phone.

I will be adding a 12v  7.5 amp flojet water pump---about 32' away counting +&- run length.

adding several 12v LED light fixtures.

a 12v interior adjustable fan.(The one I am looking at runs from 9-18 w)

and an exterior moveable LED bar light for light at campsites,(just long enough cord to go out the passenger window and hang from the solar panel rack).

I will have a lot of questions but will start with a couple at a time.

1: he has the fuse block connected directly to the battery with what looks like 14ga wire. Is this correct? (about 2' leads).

2: I read you need a DC filter in line somewhere, do I? and if so where and how and what?

3: I think the flojet needs 10g wire, does this connect to the fuse block or direct to battery with inline fuse?

4: I have been flabbergasted trying to figure out wire sizes for the parts I am adding to the van, should I just run 12g for all I am doing(other then flojet) and not worry about wire size, would be a huge mental relief for me.

Thanks, and any info is much appreciated.





1: he has the fuse block connected directly to the battery with what looks like 14ga wire. Is this correct? (about 2' leads).

Assuming the fuse is for connection between the controller and battery, yes.

2: I read you need a DC filter in line somewhere, do I? and if so where and how and what?

I do not believe you need a DC Filter. Everything you will need component wise has been provided for solar.

3: I think the flojet needs 10g wire, does this connect to the fuse block or direct to battery with inline fuse?

If this is a DC product, then it will be connected to the battery directly.


4: I have been flabbergasted trying to figure out wire sizes for the parts I am adding to the van, should I just run 12g for all I am doing(other then flojet) and not worry about wire size, would be a huge mental relief for me.

The best advice we can give is for solar wiring components. 12AWG seems appropriate, but we would recommend you talk to an installer.

Posted by jcmontana

Jul 31, 2018 at 5:33am

admin, guess I didnt explain it very well...there are two very large copper fuses that the battery, commander and charging relay connect to.

There is also a blue sea systems fuse block that is connected directly to the battery( + & -) with what looks like 14ga wire, this blue sea fuse block takes standard little 12v auto type plug in fuses, this is what the ARD fridge is plugged into(cigarette type 12v fitting) and a phone charging usb port and a fantastic fan.

This fuse block was confusing to me because I thought I needed to plug my 7.5 amp flowjet into this blue sea fuse block, but didnt make sense to me since the fuse block was fed by 14ga?(looks like) wire and the flojet was going to need 10ga wire.

but since you and others have stated the flojet connects directly to the battery with its own in line fuse that issue is a moot point..

So I assume all lower voltage items like LED lights w/dimmer switch, small 15 watt personal fans, other usb ports etc. are what will plug into the blue sea fuse block?

thanks

Posted by Guest

Jul 31, 2018 at 10:53am

jcmontana, there are various ways to wire stuff. Fuses protect the wire and some extent say the flowjet.

As I recall the flowjet comes with an inline glass fuse that is generally placed near the pump. This can certainly be on it own circuit and you could use a 7.5a fuse at the fuse box.

14g from the battery to fuse box does not seem large enough to me, 14g is rated for 15A I believe ALL the current runs through this wire and then is distributed via the fuse box. With everything ON, fridge, water pump, lights etc, seems would exceed that small 14g wire.

Since you have a fuse block, connect it to the battery with 10g or larger with a 30A fuse or circuit breaker @ the battery + to protect this short section of 10g, then use the fuse box to fuse each circuit.
let's say you have a circuit for just two 1A lights for a total of 2A and you used 10g wire. Your fuse needs to be bigger than 2A and 30A or less to protect the 10g wire if there is a short. If you wire this circuit with 14g then the max fuse is 15A and the min is larger than 2A

Same with the flowjet, fuse at the fuse box with recommended 7.5A fuse and use 10g or 12 or 14. Bigger is better!

Posted by jcmontana

Jul 31, 2018 at 2:10pm

guest, I had to pull all the solar parts out of the inside of the van last night as I am insulating that side of the van now.
I am going to wire the fuse block with 10ga, thats what I was thinking also.
I think your advice about fusing the 10ga wire coming off the battery to the fuse block is a great idea, so this would be an inline 30a fuse in the middle of the 10ga wire? correct.
OR is their some kind of a fuse device that can connect to the + post, before the 10ga wire?

thanks

Posted by v10

Jul 31, 2018 at 4:57pm

I try not to over complicate the wire gauges. Everything gets 12 or bigger.

A 100ft roll of 12g is not as expensive as buying 50 ft rolls of 3 different gauges.

12 gauge is good for anything light duty you'd be installing. Good for anything from small game to deer too.

As stated above, use a short 10g wire with a 30 amp circuit breaker from the positive terminal to your fuse block.

From my fuse block all wire is 12.

The device that you are powering will have the amperage printed on it (somewhere). That should be the size fuse that you pop into the slot to run that particular circuit.

You probably wont need any thing larger than 12 until you get to inverters, air compressors and other things that draw huge power.

Even most of the electronic locking diffs are good with 12.

Which brings me off topic. it's a good idea to make sure your Limited Slip diff is working otherwise it will embarrass the heck out of you someday. Depending on the van, some are open diff some are ls. (stamped on tag on diff cover)Open diff or worn plates in a ls basically means 1 wheel drive. No good for a camper van.



Posted by v10

Jul 31, 2018 at 5:29pm

Example





Attachments:

20180731_202353 1.jpg

Posted by v10

Aug 1, 2018 at 5:02pm

Every other picture I have attempted to post came back with 'file too large'.

Posted by tattoo

Aug 1, 2018 at 5:56pm

v10 Avatar

Aug 1, 2018 at 5:02pm v10 said:

Every other picture I have attempted to post came back with 'file too large'.


Well if that's the case make them smaller.....

Posted by v10

Aug 1, 2018 at 6:30pm

That worked, thanks tattoo.


I went behind the drivers seat with mine.


Attachments:

20180701_181455 1.jpg

Posted by tattoo

Aug 1, 2018 at 7:38pm

^^^^^^ That's an awesome and very clean set up you have there...^^^^^

Posted by jsb2000

Aug 2, 2018 at 7:35am

tattoo Avatar

Aug 1, 2018 at 7:38pm tattoo said:

^^^^^^ That's an awesome and very clean set up you have there...^^^^^


Ditto. VERY nice! Everything nice and tidy. That mesh on the front looks like it provides good airflow as well. Kudos!

Posted by v10

Aug 2, 2018 at 4:05pm

Thank you very much.

The expanded metal solved 2 problems. Ventilation and protection from damage caused by whatever that thing is that i forgot to strap down.


It seems to vent well so far. If temperature becomes a problem I have a small computer cooling fan that I can install. There is a 5000w inverter in there also.



Posted by jcmontana

Aug 3, 2018 at 5:36am

v10,ok, thats the way I will wire it, and yes I have a B4 rear end with a gear swap to 4.10 or 4.11s, cant remember which. will check it.thanks

Posted by jcmontana

Aug 3, 2018 at 5:39am

v10, nice and clean..looks like some gray carpet on the sides of the box, was that easy to mold to the cabinet?

Posted by v10

Aug 3, 2018 at 5:37pm

It's outdoor carpet. Nearly indestructible. It has a unitary backing which makes it very easy to work with.

Glue field with vct glue and use a hot melt glue gun and a razor knife to upholster the edges

Its not coming off. EVER

As a bonus the hook side of velcro sticks to it.

Posted by v10

Aug 3, 2018 at 6:36pm

Back to the flowjet on 30 feet of wire;

If I'm not mistaken the formula is 7.5 x 1.25 = 9.375

Try the 7.5 first though.



Posted by Alex

Aug 4, 2018 at 5:41am

Use the wire size suggested by the flojet's instructions, same for fuse, add a switch in the circuit to turn off the pump when not needed.

Posted by jcmontana

Aug 6, 2018 at 5:02am

checking flojets instructions now, thanks.

Posted by v10

Aug 6, 2018 at 6:39pm

You might find some useful info on 12v systems here.

forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/wiring-a-12v-3-way-switch.83434/

Enjoy your build. Have you seen some of the 4x4 conversions available these days?

Posted by jcmontana

Aug 8, 2018 at 3:16pm

v10, I will check out that site, thanks,,flojet manual says 10 amp fuse and 12ga wire for 30' or less, I moved my battery location and now I am only 20' total on wire.

My van is an Agile Offroad 4x4 conversion with hi/low range, warn locking hubs, 4.10s, actually gets great mileage with the 4.10s and 34" tires.

Posted by bupkis

Aug 8, 2018 at 5:03pm

yep, different flojets have different requirements!

Posted by v10

Aug 9, 2018 at 6:11pm

Yes 9point something would bring you to a 10a.

There is nothing more versatile than a 4x4 van, JC

You are really going to like your truck.

As you are wiring it for the build out, try to look at it as an expandable system. It's always a good idea to run a few pull lines along with your wiring that will be un-accessible later. If you need to run more wire later, it will pull thru without un-doing all your nice work.

Plus eventually you will end up with an inverter. You will want that on a battery turn off switch because they draw power even when they are not turned on. Account for that in your layout


Also just like any other job you've done in a house as a GC, go heavy on the insulation




Depending on your bumper set up, Curt makes a front receiver hitch that bolts onto the frame under a stock bumper. Not sure if it fits with the aftermarket bumpers but some of those have the receiver tube built in

Nice for a carry-all rack. Coolers,surf rod holders, removable winch.

The possibilities are endless

Yep, you are really going to like your truck

Posted by v10

Aug 9, 2018 at 6:22pm

Yes 9point something would bring you to a 10a.

There is nothing more versatile than a 4x4 van, JC

You are really going to like your truck.

As you are wiring it for the build out, try to look at it as an expandable system. It's always a good idea to run a few pull lines along with your wiring that will be un-accessible later. If you need to run more wire later, it will pull thru without un-doing all your nice work.

Plus eventually you will end up with an inverter. You will want that on a battery turn off switch because they draw power even when they are not turned on. Account for that in your layout


Also just like any other job you've done in a house as a GC, go heavy on the insulation




Depending on your bumper set up, Curt makes a front receiver hitch that bolts onto the frame under a stock bumper. Not sure if it fits with the aftermarket bumpers but some of those have the receiver tube built in

Nice for a carry-all rack. Coolers,surf rod holders, removable winch.

The possibilities are endless

Yep, you are really going to like your truck

Posted by Alex

Aug 9, 2018 at 6:23pm

the 3 point something flojet calls for a 10A fuse.

Posted by jcmontana

Aug 22, 2018 at 4:08pm

v10, I have that front hitch already installed,and the back hitch. I have been looking for a long time for this van,,,a cargo van with barn doors and glass,side and rear, No other windows, and an agile off road conversion. Plus came with lizard skin, all ceramic tinted windows, solar, arb fridge, custom window coverings for all windows. And not built out on the inside..
I just about have all the interior framing done, getting ready for the finish here quick.
The inverter is another issue,,,,again, the elec. throughs me for a mental loop. Dont know the first thing about an inverter or hooking it up..Am going to have a hard enough time just hooking the solar system back up, I took a bunch of pictures, but my mind doesnt work well with elec.

Posted by jcmontana

Aug 22, 2018 at 4:15pm

I am rereading all these helpful posts as I go along . Guest--I did get some 10ga to wire from battery to fuse block. The flojet did not come with an in line fuse. So I need an in line fuse for the flow jet(10amp) and an inline fuse from the battery to fuse block(Guest recommended 30 amp here),,can someone point me to the correct type of fuses to get and the fuse containers that i would wire too.
thanks

Posted by v10

Aug 22, 2018 at 5:37pm

Jim, thats going to be one hellofa rig! Great find.


Mine is a work horse that doubles as a weekend warrior. Meeting with Ujoint next month.


For your circuit breaker, dont think of the square D type used in a house. Its more of an in line self resetting type. See pic and link
www.wiringproducts.com/bussmann-short-stop-circuit-breakers

The fuse block itself takes the fuse for your Flojet and any other circuits you will be running. If you pull that 10g wire from your positive terminal(30amp circuit breaker protected)to a fuse block, it will eliminate the 'in-line fuse' that you are thinking about
www.wiringproducts.com/fuse-blocks
It will put all your fuses in a nice neat easy to access row

Each circuit you pull (12g wire for flojet)will need to come from the fuse block and go to your device. Then a separate wire (same gauge, different color) grounded to something that has a good connection to your frame
You could buy a grounding buss bar but these vans are all metal so you really dont need one.





20180822_200819.jpg




































Posted by v10

Aug 22, 2018 at 6:14pm

Re-connection shouldn't be too bad once you get your head around it.


There are a several diagrams on the renogy site.


Make sure he has a fuse between the panels and the controller as shown in this diagram.


If not, thats a good place for an in-line






Attachments:

300_watt_premium_kit_rover_bt_1_new.jpg

Posted by jcmontana

Aug 25, 2018 at 9:23am

v10..ok well here goes, try to explain.
1: I do have a fuse just like that one in your picture between the house battery and controller.(it is after the
blue sea systems ml-acr connection from the starter battery).

2:I have another big copper inline fuse that the negative wire from the starter battery goes to first before engaging the house battery .

3: V10 wrote----(The fuse block itself takes the fuse for your Flojet and any other circuits you will be running. If you pull that 10g wire from your positive terminal(30amp circuit breaker protected)to a fuse block, it will eliminate the 'in-line fuse' that you are thinking about
www.wiringproducts.com/fuse-blocks
It will put all your fuses in a nice neat easy to access row)

3A:--Are you saying I should connect the 10ga wire "from the fuse block" to the LARGE fuse thats "between" the + battery cable and the controller? And piggy back it on top of the controller connection?

3B: will that eliminate that self setting inline breaker you mentioned?

4: Their is an in line fuse between the panels and controller.

5: Why do I need to ground everything to the frame, cant all grounds just go to the fuse block ground, and that grounds to the battery -(negative) with 10ga wire.
5A: the wire I bought is 12-2 duplex marine grade(red-yellow)wire, since I am pulling positive off the fuse block why not hook negative to the fuse block?

Thanks alot V10 and guest for your input, I really appreciate it.

Posted by jcmontana

Aug 25, 2018 at 9:24am

fwiw-My fuse block is a blue sea systems fuse block

Posted by bupkis

Aug 25, 2018 at 10:12am

jcmontana Avatar

Aug 25, 2018 at 9:24am jcmontana said:

fwiw-My fuse block is a blue sea systems fuse block


what kind of fuses does it use?

Posted by v10

Aug 26, 2018 at 2:55pm

Try to post a picture or a link to that fuse block for a better understanding of what you are working with.

If it has both positive and negative then 5 and 5A are good to go

3A. Definitely NOT

Posted by jcmontana

Aug 27, 2018 at 2:06pm

v10, meeting with ujoint, nice, quality parts...

I will check the model of fuse block once I get home,,the web site says"""Accepts ATO® and ATC® fast acting blade fuses""".

How do you post picks on this site?

Posted by bupkis

Aug 27, 2018 at 5:31pm

those are blade fuses just like the ones in vehicles. They simply plug in to complete the circuit.

Posted by tattoo

Aug 27, 2018 at 5:47pm

Nothing special about a blade fuse...

Posted by jcmontana

Aug 27, 2018 at 5:48pm

Ok, tried to upload these pics of my solar "box" of parts. The fuse block has space for 12 fuses and 12 +- connections.

---


!0 ga wire from battery to fuse block(which isnt installed yet),install an inline fuse or that automatic breaker that was mentioned??

Posted by jcmontana

Aug 27, 2018 at 5:58pm

the one on the right shows what the solar panels are doing, it always has a happy face on it, so I assume its working correctly,,the one on the left was wired all the way up to the starter battery, I have no idea why he did that other then maybe it shows what the starter battery is doing,,,any thoughts??

Posted by tattoo

Aug 27, 2018 at 6:07pm

So all the fuse block is doing is going to the gauges? At least that's what they look like...

I hate those spade connectors...

Posted by tattoo

Aug 27, 2018 at 6:08pm

Another question, Is that going to be a closed box when it's finished? With batteries in there??


And what's all that other stuff going on in there?

Posted by jcmontana

Aug 27, 2018 at 6:22pm

under the fuse block, one of those is a usb charging outlet and the other one is what the arb fridge connected into, like a cigarette12v plug.

No it wont be a closed box when done, thats just how it was when I purchased the van.

Posted by tattoo

Aug 27, 2018 at 6:58pm

jcmontana Avatar

Aug 27, 2018 at 6:22pm jcmontana said:

under the fuse block, one of those is a usb charging outlet and the other one is what the arb fridge connected into, like a cigarette12v plug.

No it wont be a closed box when done, thats just how it was when I purchased the van.


Got ya.... Be sure and have all of your 12v draws off of the batteries not the CC load side......

Posted by jcmontana

Aug 27, 2018 at 7:00pm

what is the CC load side?

Posted by tattoo

Aug 27, 2018 at 7:11pm

jcmontana Avatar

Aug 27, 2018 at 7:00pm jcmontana said:

what is the CC load side?


On your CC on the right side where the lugs are.... You have where the panels attach to the CC then the batteries then the 12v load.... That should be used only for small things like lights and a very few of them..

Posted by jcmontana

Aug 27, 2018 at 7:30pm

tattoo, I have no idea what your talking about,,,is the CC my 40amp charge controller?

which part is the 12v load? You mean the fuse block? You lost me.

Posted by jcmontana

Aug 27, 2018 at 7:33pm

In the top picture I posted on this page, right in front of the charge controller, their is a black ground wire connected to either a buss bar or a large copper fuse..

Is this a fuse, or just a good way of connecting wires together.

Im very slow with 12v elec..

Posted by jcmontana

Aug 27, 2018 at 7:36pm

Tattoo, ok, think I got it, your saying dont plug anything into the charger directly that uses power, I will run everything off the battery fuse block....the only thing I was thinking of getting to hook into the CC is that temperature setup renolgy sells.

Posted by v10

Aug 28, 2018 at 3:40am

Ventilation is very important.

You are correct. Your fuse block will accommodate both + and -

For your 10g wire, you can use either a circuit breaker or a fuse. Your choice. I like the auto reset circuit breaker because it would reset itself if it tripped. Plus auto parts stores sell them so they are readily available while traveling.

You'd do well to add up your max draw to make sure a 30 amp is enough.

Did you say there is a big fuse on the negative of your starting battery?

Finding the manufacturers installation manual on that unit and checking the previous owners work would be time well spent

Posted by bupkis

Aug 28, 2018 at 4:06am

on the far left is a fuse block, next to the controller is a shunt. Shunts generally go close to a battery neg terminal with all loads going through the shunt. I assume it is wired to you xantrex meter, the two small wires in the middle of the shunt measure voltage drop across the shunt and the meter converts that into amps.

Link Lite battery monitor

www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-accessories/linklite-battery-monitor.aspx

charging relay

www.bluesea.com/products/category/35/91/Automatic_Charging_Relays/ML-ACRs



WHAT A MESS, those dangling conections made with a bolt, BS.

Posted by jcmontana

Aug 28, 2018 at 4:11pm

Yes it is a mess and confusing as hell to me..actually the battery sat in the bottom of that box and the bolts are the connection to the battery terminals.

You are correct the small wires at the shunt are going to the xantrex, there is actually 6 wires coming off that xantrex, 3 red and 2 black going into the box and one red wire from the "VA location on the xantrex" going all the way up to the starter battery. Why run the wire to the starter battery?

Thanks for the link to the xantrex, but it makes no sense to me, can you explain in laymans terms what that xantrex does that the MT50 doesnt do.

Is the xantrex a good part to have or should I get rid of it?

V10, bupkis said it is a shunt, I have no idea what its for, I read the wikipedia on it still dont understand why its their.

Posted by tattoo

Aug 28, 2018 at 4:21pm

jcmontana Avatar

Aug 28, 2018 at 4:11pm jcmontana said:

 can you explain in laymans terms what that xantrex does that the MT50 doesnt do.

 


LOL Good luck with that... LOL Unless he has changed with his name change.....

Posted by jcmontana

Aug 28, 2018 at 4:22pm

I am not running much in the van off the house battery, I am going to list what I am running and let me know if the 30 amp fuse to the fuse block is enough..
ARD 50qt fridge--says 1.5 amp per hour.
2 blue sea systems fast charge DUAL usb chargers, says 4.8 amps (total for 2 plug ins)(only two will ever be used at one time).
10 amp flojet pump.
4 12" LED light strips off of a dimmer. cant remember their draw, like 15 watts or their abouts.

May add, down the road, 2 small LED puck lights, and a small personal type 12v fan, says it draws about 20 watts.

Is this correct-12 watts = 1 amp?

thanks for all the help folks

Posted by bupkis

Aug 28, 2018 at 4:36pm

The xantrex is a battery monitor, I'd want to monitor the aux batt not the start battery. It keeps track of all the current in/out of the battery.

The MT-50 is the solar monitor, it shows what the solar is doing, it does not know when and how long you run the water pump or led lights!

There is too much noise here so I just slip away from this thread. let the experts handle it.

Posted by tattoo

Aug 28, 2018 at 5:24pm

Crackle,crackle, zzzz, crackle..... Yep there sure is B I R D........ LOL

Posted by v10

Aug 29, 2018 at 7:00pm

I'm not an expert by any means but I'll go ahead and post anyhow.

I agree with bupkis that you wouldn't need to monitor the starting batt

Your van should have a gauge on the dash. The gauge is not a very precise one but it it effective. There is also a battery light.

If the van is having charging problems, you'll have plenty advance notice.

I already know the money that gets dumped into these beasts. Having to pay some one qualified to do the wiring is sound investment.

Maybe find the guy with best reputation, and bring him the van, and concentrate on the more fun parts of the build.

Check this table out. I made one that swings out and catches on the side door to accommodate the coffee maker.Can be used outside or inside with door closed

www.youtube.com/watch?v=owluWNKs7dU

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