Answered

Load, fuses, Switch questions:

Thread Summary

Posted by Admin

Sep 24, 2018 at 6:25am


Mar 20, 2017 at 2:55pm Guest said:

Renogy 20 amp mppt controller, 100 watt panel.
I have read the manual but I don't understand "Load". I have a camper with 2-12V batteries in parallel. I understand the battery connections, and the solar panel connections. I have 3 questions;

1) Is there any reason I can't ignore the "Load" connections and just leave them disconnected? I just want to charge the batteries as I can, and use the batteries as I need to. I have a gas generator to use if the charge level drops too low.
2) I have read that fuses are needed on - as well as + wires. Is this correct? Indeed, my ham radio equipment has fuses on both to avoid a short circuit problem.
3)What switches and where? I know this has been discussed, but I am looking for a water-proof solution that is cheap and easy.






rabird Avatar

Mar 21, 2017 at 12:32pm @rabird said:

The Load feature is for turning on/off 12v stuff dusk to dawn, you can ignore it, leave the batt connected to the trailer and add the +/- from the controller to the batt.

single panel does not need to be fused (panel to controller), you can fuse near the controller (controller to batt), batt should be fused, normally just the + is fused.

connection order can be an issue, connect the controller to batt first then connect the panels, reverse for disconnect. How do you disconnect the panel if you are to disconnect the controller from the batt? Here is where a fuse between the panel and controller can be used as a disconnect or disconnect a MC4 connection.

For a camper you should have a batt disconnect so the CO/propane detector does not drain the battery. I see no need to disconnect the controller/batt as I would leave it connected and allow to charge/maintain your batteries even while in storage.




Mar 21, 2017 at 4:22pm Guest said:

I got all that, and I really appreciate you taking the time to post answers for me! I just finished installing the unit - kinda in temporary mode. I am pleased with the price, and somewhat less pleased with the quality. My Controller has a stripped PV screw, and the MT-5 doesn't connect to my controller as advertised. I just put in a return request for the remote meter. I'll see what support suggests for the stripped screw. I'm thinking it was a returned controller.




Mar 26, 2017 at 12:47pm Guest said:

Solar addict
I just bought a 400 watt Eclipse premium kit with a 40 amp controller and a Renogy 2000 watt inverter and a four 6 volt 225A/H I know I need more fuse's you have given me good advice on where to put them I have no idea how big of fuse to use in each place. If you could help me, that would be great. and if you are someone out there has seen a picture of this set up, I foregot I'm putting it in our montana 5th wheel.



rabird Avatar

Mar 26, 2017 at 1:24pm @rabird said:

www.windynation.com/jzv/inf/how-properly-fuse-solar-pv-system




Mar 26, 2017 at 2:41pm Guest said:

Rebird
Thanks that helps, you have any ideas which way I should run the 4 100 watt panels, parrell or series
Thanks, Mel



rabird Avatar

Mar 26, 2017 at 3:28pm @rabird said:

series if there is no shade, that way the amps don't increase and you can use 10g wire from the panels to the controller.




Mar 26, 2017 at 3:51pm Guest said:

Our property in Washington has full southern exsposer from sun up to sun down, Spent over a month there last august and september ran the gen. so long I hope I never have to here it again. We got home and bought a new to us 5th wheel and now were installing the solar on that. I hope it's a big enough system for us. My big problem is figuring out what size fuses to use down in the basement with the CC, inverter charger and battery bank



tattoo Avatar

Mar 26, 2017 at 4:40pm tattoo said:

It all depends on what system you have or going to buy........



rabird Avatar

Mar 26, 2017 at 5:05pm @rabird said:

shade can come from air conditioner and other stuff on the roof of a 5th wheeler
sign up and ask for detailed help - tech issues @ rv.net
www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/listings/forum/39.cfm




Apr 26, 2017 at 2:17pm Guest said:

Isn't there a bit more than that?

Seems to me that if you don't run most or all of the camper circuits off the Load output of the MPPT controller you lose the metering associated with the camper circuits.

IOW, if you run the camper circuits (e.g. lights, fridge, etc.) from the Rover's Load output you get real time current metering and accumulated AH drawn by the camper circuits on the Rover's display. If you just run the camper circuits from the battery you still get meter information related to solar panel charging but lose the info related to current draw and overall energy consumption in AH related to camper circuits.

I guess if you don't care about monitoring the load consumption and just monitor overall house battery voltage as a proxy for capacity then it's easy to just connect camper loads to the battery itself. But if you want the Rover to provide both charge and drain current and energy (AH) information then you'll want to connect camper loads to the Rover's Load output.






rabird Avatar

Apr 26, 2017 at 7:04pm @rabird said:

Well the warning in the manual says not to connect inverters, battery chargers or high amp drawing devices to the load terminals, if ya plug your camper into utility power doesn't your on board converter become a battery charger?

Both the rover 20 & 40 are rated 20A load. Most RVs ignore the load feature, I'd use it for timed outside night lights!

Furnace, water pump and a few lights and ya might be exceeding 20A.




Apr 26, 2017 at 7:28pm Guest said:

Well you certainly have to manage total load current if you utilize the Load port on the Rover series converters but that said if you bypass the Load port you do lose load current metering.

FWIW, I run the fridge, lights, propane heater (glow plug and fans) off of the Renogy Load port. Peak current draw with all devices active is approximately 7 amps which is well below the 20 amp rating of the controller, average current is much less as neither the fridge nor propane heater electrical circuits run on a 100% duty cycle. I do run a 350 watt pure sine inverted directly off the battery as it will draw ~33 amps at full load but it's very rarely turned on.

So for the vast majority of the time that I do not use the pure sine inverter I get current monitoring on my camper electrical devices and a running tally of accumulted AH of energy consumed by the devices which is handy for estimating things like average current draw of the fridge and heater, neither of which run on a 100% duty cycle. When the inverter is in use I'm obviously putting a substantial drain on the house batteries that is not accounted for by the Renogy Load monitoring.

In terms of charging via shore power that's handled by a dedicated charger that does not interface with the Renogy Load circuit at all and just has shore power AC input and dual charger outputs, one tied to the house battery and the other tied to the starter battery.

Clearly if your RV power needs exceeds the total current rating for the Load port then you cannot use that port and lose the ability to monitor current drain and total AH of energy drain but it's unfair to say that all the Load port does is support day/night on off switching (which is only one of the programmable modes) it also turns your MPPT controller into a power monitoring system which is a pretty handy thing to have in off grid applications.



rabird Avatar

Apr 27, 2017 at 4:54am @rabird said:

So only one of the load modes is on 24/7 and the other 15 or so are timed!

Thrilled you figured a work around for using the load feature to your liking, that is not the typical way to wire a controller for TT use.
Yes ya loose the monitoring feature and gain the risk of overloading the controller from loads, on board charger and vehicle charge line. Note your inverter use is not monitored and there is no need to rewire anything when adding solar to a TT.

I use my load feature to control landscape lights for 3 hrs a night (one of 17 options) and would do the same on a TT. YMMV



fmouse Avatar

Jun 29, 2017 at 1:01pm @fmouse said:

So is there any documentation on the Load output of the Rover CC? The PDF manual says what you _shouldn't_ do with it, but gives only vague clues about what it's for. This discussion is helpful, but I'd like to find a discussion on the feature in a Renogy online publication.


Posted by Admin

Sep 24, 2018 at 6:25am

rabird Avatar

Jun 30, 2017 at 6:40am @rabird said:

What is it you are after?, the manual shows the 17 different setting for the load terminals.
If you want on after dark (with after dark changing thru the year) use em as ya like up total current limit also in the manual!.




Jun 11, 2018 at 11:17pm Guest said:

I see I'm not the only one with this question. The manual says no inverters , no chargers , no high amp draws. What exactly is considered "high amp" ? I'm using it for a water pump in a cabin. The pump draws less than 1 amp at 24 volts while running , but I bet it pulls about 5 amps at start up. Am I going to be OK ? I would like to connect the batteries to the battery terminals , and my pump to the load terminals so that I can monitor how much power I am actually using. I do have a charger for the 24 volt battery bank , but it will be connected directly to the batteries , not the load terminals.


Posted by Alon

Jan 12, 2020 at 3:00pm

Admin Avatar

Sep 24, 2018 at 6:25am Admin said:


Mar 20, 2017 at 2:55pm Guest said:

Renogy 20 amp mppt controller, 100 watt panel.  
I have read the manual but I don't understand "Load". I have a camper with 2-12V batteries in parallel. I understand the battery connections, and the solar panel connections. I have 3 questions;

1) Is there any reason I can't ignore the "Load" connections and just leave them disconnected? I just want to charge the batteries as I can, and use the batteries as I need to. I have a gas generator to use if the charge level drops too low.
2) I have read that fuses are needed on - as well as + wires. Is this correct? Indeed, my ham radio equipment has fuses on both to avoid a short circuit problem.
3)What switches and where? I know this has been discussed, but I am looking for a water-proof solution that is cheap and easy.





rabird Avatar

Mar 21, 2017 at 12:32pm @rabird said:

The Load feature is for turning on/off 12v stuff dusk to dawn, you can ignore it, leave the batt connected to the trailer and add the +/- from the controller to the batt.

single panel does not need to be fused (panel to controller), you can fuse near the controller (controller to batt), batt should be fused, normally just the + is fused.

connection order can be an issue, connect the controller to batt first then connect the panels, reverse for disconnect. How do you disconnect the panel if you are to disconnect the controller from the batt? Here is where a fuse between the panel and controller can be used as a disconnect or disconnect a MC4 connection.

For a camper you should have a batt disconnect so the CO/propane detector does not drain the battery. I see no need to disconnect the controller/batt as I would leave it connected and allow to charge/maintain your batteries even while in storage.



Mar 21, 2017 at 4:22pm Guest said:

I got all that, and I really appreciate you taking the time to post answers for me! I just finished installing the unit - kinda in temporary mode. I am pleased with the price, and somewhat less pleased with the quality. My Controller has a stripped PV screw, and the MT-5 doesn't connect to my controller as advertised. I just put in a return request for the remote meter. I'll see what support suggests for the stripped screw. I'm thinking it was a returned controller.



Mar 26, 2017 at 12:47pm Guest said:

Solar addict
I just bought a 400 watt Eclipse premium kit with a 40 amp controller and a Renogy 2000 watt inverter and a four 6 volt 225A/H I know I need more fuse's you have given me good advice on where to put them I have no idea how big of fuse to use in each place. If you could help me, that would be great. and if you are someone out there has seen a picture of this set up, I foregot I'm putting it in our montana 5th wheel.


rabird Avatar

Mar 26, 2017 at 1:24pm @rabird said:

www.windynation.com/jzv/inf/how-properly-fuse-solar-pv-system



Mar 26, 2017 at 2:41pm Guest said:

Rebird
Thanks that helps, you have any ideas which way I should run the 4 100 watt panels, parrell or series
Thanks, Mel


rabird Avatar

Mar 26, 2017 at 3:28pm @rabird said:

series if there is no shade, that way the amps don't increase and you can use 10g wire from the panels to the controller.



Mar 26, 2017 at 3:51pm Guest said:

Our property in Washington has full southern exsposer from sun up to sun down, Spent over a month there last august and september ran the gen. so long I hope I never have to here it again. We got home and bought a new to us 5th wheel and now were installing the solar on that. I hope it's a big enough system for us. My big problem is figuring out what size fuses to use down in the basement with the CC, inverter charger and battery bank


tattoo Avatar

Mar 26, 2017 at 4:40pm tattoo said:

 It all depends on what system you have or going to buy........


rabird Avatar

Mar 26, 2017 at 5:05pm @rabird said:

shade can come from air conditioner and other stuff on the roof of a 5th wheeler
sign up and ask for detailed help - tech issues @ rv.net
www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/listings/forum/39.cfm



Apr 26, 2017 at 2:17pm Guest said:

Isn't there a bit more than that?

Seems to me that if you don't run most or all of the camper circuits off the Load output of the MPPT controller you lose the metering associated with the camper circuits.

IOW, if you run the camper circuits (e.g. lights, fridge, etc.) from the Rover's Load output you get real time current metering and accumulated AH drawn by the camper circuits on the Rover's display. If you just run the camper circuits from the battery you still get meter information related to solar panel charging but lose the info related to current draw and overall energy consumption in AH related to camper circuits.

I guess if you don't care about monitoring the load consumption and just monitor overall house battery voltage as a proxy for capacity then it's easy to just connect camper loads to the battery itself. But if you want the Rover to provide both charge and drain current and energy (AH) information then you'll want to connect camper loads to the Rover's Load output.





rabird Avatar

Apr 26, 2017 at 7:04pm @rabird said:

Well the warning in the manual says not to connect inverters, battery chargers or high amp drawing devices to the load terminals, if ya plug your camper into utility power doesn't your on board converter become a battery charger?

Both the rover 20 & 40 are rated 20A load. Most RVs ignore the load feature, I'd use it for timed outside night lights!

Furnace, water pump and a few lights and ya might be exceeding 20A.



Apr 26, 2017 at 7:28pm Guest said:

Well you certainly have to manage total load current if you utilize the Load port on the Rover series converters but that said if you bypass the Load port you do lose load current metering.

FWIW, I run the fridge, lights, propane heater (glow plug and fans) off of the Renogy Load port. Peak current draw with all devices active is approximately 7 amps which is well below the 20 amp rating of the controller, average current is much less as neither the fridge nor propane heater electrical circuits run on a 100% duty cycle. I do run a 350 watt pure sine inverted directly off the battery as it will draw ~33 amps at full load but it's very rarely turned on.

So for the vast majority of the time that I do not use the pure sine inverter I get current monitoring on my camper electrical devices and a running tally of accumulted AH of energy consumed by the devices which is handy for estimating things like average current draw of the fridge and heater, neither of which run on a 100% duty cycle. When the inverter is in use I'm obviously putting a substantial drain on the house batteries that is not accounted for by the Renogy Load monitoring.

In terms of charging via shore power that's handled by a dedicated charger that does not interface with the Renogy Load circuit at all and just has shore power AC input and dual charger outputs, one tied to the house battery and the other tied to the starter battery.

Clearly if your RV power needs exceeds the total current rating for the Load port then you cannot use that port and lose the ability to monitor current drain and total AH of energy drain but it's unfair to say that all the Load port does is support day/night on off switching (which is only one of the programmable modes) it also turns your MPPT controller into a power monitoring system which is a pretty handy thing to have in off grid applications.


rabird Avatar

Apr 27, 2017 at 4:54am @rabird said:

So only one of the load modes is on 24/7 and the other 15 or so are timed!

Thrilled you figured a work around for using the load feature to your liking, that is not the typical way to wire a controller for TT use.
Yes ya loose the monitoring feature and gain the risk of overloading the controller from loads, on board charger and vehicle charge line. Note your inverter use is not monitored and there is no need to rewire anything when adding solar to a TT.

I use my load feature to control landscape lights for 3 hrs a night (one of 17 options) and would do the same on a TT. YMMV


fmouse Avatar

Jun 29, 2017 at 1:01pm @fmouse said:

So is there any documentation on the Load output of the Rover CC? The PDF manual says what you _shouldn't_ do with it, but gives only vague clues about what it's for. This discussion is helpful, but I'd like to find a discussion on the feature in a Renogy online publication.



Posted by Alon

Jan 12, 2020 at 3:02pm

I have the load light on all the time, what can be the problem?

Posted by NCMountainSolar

Jan 13, 2020 at 5:40am


Jan 12, 2020 at 3:02pm Alon said:

        

I have the load light on all the time, what can be the problem?


You have configured the controller load to setting #17 which means you can pull voltage from the load terminals 24/7. The other settings for the load terminals allow turning it on manually or timed as others have suggested. I have 12V DC lighting on my load terminals and it's switched so I leave mine on setting 17 as well.

Posted by Admin

Jan 13, 2020 at 10:50am


Jan 12, 2020 at 3:02pm Alon said:

I have the load light on all the time, what can be the problem?



If you are using our 20A MPPT controller with the load light function/feature, the manual of the controller shows the different load settings you can put on the controller and what each setting means. If the load light is on all the time and does not turn off, the controller might be on load setting 17.

-Renogy Team

Posted by Alon

Jan 13, 2020 at 2:12pm

Admin Avatar

Jan 13, 2020 at 10:50am Admin said:


Jan 12, 2020 at 3:02pm Alon said:

I have the load light on all the time, what can be the problem?


If you are using our 20A MPPT controller with the load light function/feature, the manual of the controller shows the different load settings you can put on the controller and what each setting means. If the load light is on all the time and does not turn on, the controller might be on load setting 17.

-Renogy Team




Thank you for the fast answer.
I have the 40amp. And the light never goes off.
Please advice
Thank you

Posted by Admin

Jan 13, 2020 at 3:35pm


Jan 13, 2020 at 2:12pm Alon said:

Admin Avatar

Jan 13, 2020 at 10:50am Admin said:

If you are using our 20A MPPT controller with the load light function/feature, the manual of the controller shows the different load settings you can put on the controller and what each setting means. If the load light is on all the time and does not turn on, the controller might be on load setting 17.

-Renogy Team


Thank you for the fast answer.
I have the 40amp. And the light never goes off.
Please advice
Thank you



If you have the Rover 40A MPPT controller, it has the same load settings as the 20A Rover MPPT controller. Have you checked if your 40A controller is on load setting 17?

-Renogy Team

Posted by Alon

Jan 19, 2020 at 10:08am

If not 17, then what yes?
How can I change it?

Many thanks

Posted by Alon

Jan 20, 2020 at 6:54am

My load setting is on 15.

Posted by Alon

Jan 20, 2020 at 11:00am

It was a nice flow of fast answers and now? Hope to hear from you soon, can't work in my camper without it

Posted by bupkis

Jan 20, 2020 at 3:47pm

15 is manual, one should be able to press 'enter' to change (on/off) the load. See the owner's manual. OR JUST LEAVE IT ON.

Posted by Alon

Jan 21, 2020 at 4:06am

Thank you for the answer.
The question now is to which number should I change it?

Posted by bupkis

Jan 21, 2020 at 5:43am

what do you want. I'd set it to your need. Only affects loads attached to load terminals (typically not used). Once again the meaning off each setting is outlined in the owner's manual.


load.jpg

Posted by Admin

Jan 23, 2020 at 2:19pm


Jan 19, 2020 at 10:08am Alon said:

If not 17, then what yes?
How can I change it?

Many thanks



Depending on what your needs on, if you are on setting 15, you can manually turn the load on or off by pressing the Enter button, or you can also select the other load settings as shown in the load mode options table in the Rover manual.

-Renogy Team

Thread Summary

Posted by Alon

Feb 4, 2020 at 2:47pm

Until now, each option I choose I get the load light on.
And error E1.
What can I understand from it please

Posted by Alon

Feb 5, 2020 at 6:18am

Is it o.k or not o.k to have the load light on?
Is this indication of something bad?

The light of the battery is blinking?

Please advise

Thank you.

Posted by tattoo

Feb 5, 2020 at 9:56am


Feb 5, 2020 at 6:18am Alon said:


Is it o.k or not o.k to have the load light on?
Is this indication of something bad?

The light of the battery is blinking?

Please advise

Thank you.


Since no one has asked............ What do you have hooked to the load side?

Posted by Admin

Feb 5, 2020 at 5:02pm


Feb 4, 2020 at 2:47pm Alon said:

Until now, each option I choose I get the load light on.
And error E1.
What can I understand from it please



The E1 error code on the Rover 40 controller means the battery is over-discharged, you may want to check your battery voltage with a multi-meter. Load setting 17 on this controller will have the load light turned on 24 hours a day, load setting 0 and 1-14 will turn on when the panel is no longer producing any power, load setting 15 lets you manually turn on or off load anytime, and in load setting 16 load turns on when no voltage is detected.

-Renogy Team

Posted by Admin

Feb 5, 2020 at 5:09pm


Feb 5, 2020 at 6:18am Alon said:

Is it o.k or not o.k to have the load light on?
Is this indication of something bad?

The light of the battery is blinking?

Please advise

Thank you.



If the load light on your controller is on, and none of the possible reasons why it may be on that we described in our previous post are applicable to your system, then there may be an issue with your controller or on the load connections and terminals. If the battery light on the controller is blinking/flashing slowly, that means your battery is over-discharged, which may explain why you were getting the E1 error code. If the battery light was flashing fast, that means the battery is at over-voltage.

-Renogy Team

Posted by tattoo

Feb 5, 2020 at 5:33pm

^^^^^^^^ Like they said and I asked..........^^^^^^^^^^

Way more info is needed to help you............

Posted by Alon

Feb 7, 2020 at 2:46pm

Thank you all for your help.

Well,according to what was said here, the battery is over charge, the light blinks slowly. How can I fix that?

To the question, "what do I have connected to the load?" Nothing, I have only a battery and panels connecting to where they should be.

Is there any way to check of the controller it self is not o.k?

Any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you.

Posted by Alon

Feb 7, 2020 at 3:01pm

And, one side that its overcharged the other say it's discharged.
Which one is it when the light if the battery is blinding slow?

Posted by tattoo

Feb 7, 2020 at 3:11pm


Feb 7, 2020 at 3:01pm Alon said:


And, one side that its overcharged the other say it's discharged.
Which one is it when the light if the battery is blinding slow?


One side of WHAT? The other side of WHAT?


Like I said above........... Way more info needed to help you.....

Posted by tattoo

Feb 7, 2020 at 3:13pm


Feb 7, 2020 at 2:46pm Alon said:


Thank you all for your help.

Well,according to what was said here, the battery is over charge, the light blinks slowly. How can I fix that?

To the question, "what do I have connected to the load?" Nothing, I have only a battery and panels connecting to where they should be.

Is there any way to check of the controller it self is not o.k?

Any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you.


So you have NO load at all anywhere?


So all your doing is charging a battery?

Posted by Alon

Feb 7, 2020 at 4:55pm

When you say load, do you mean, using the battery for something? Well I use it for a mini refrigerator and some LED lights.
There is a load socket in the controller I thought you meant this. There I have nothing conntact to.
Thanks

Posted by tattoo

Feb 7, 2020 at 7:43pm


Feb 7, 2020 at 4:55pm Alon said:


When you say load, do you mean, using the battery for something? Well I use it for a mini refrigerator and some LED lights.
There is a load socket in the controller I thought you meant this. There I have nothing conntact to.
Thanks


I did mean attaching a load to the CC at first..... But then you said you don't have anything running but your panels and your batteries..... Now you say you have a mini fridge and lights? ? ? ?


Now can you answer my other question...........  One side of WHAT? The other side of WHAT?

Posted by Alon

Feb 8, 2020 at 3:21am

Nothing is connected to the socket under the name load.
I have the panels connected where it say so in the controller the same with the battery, it's very clear what goes where on the controller.
From the battery I take out to a fuse box and from there to the fridge and light.

I hope this answers you questions, I get a bit confused.
Is there another to communicate with you?
Thank you

Posted by tattoo

Feb 8, 2020 at 5:16am

Hi Alon, I understand. You have nothing on the load side of the CC.... I knew that before....

Is your fridge 12v?

Posted by tattoo

Feb 8, 2020 at 5:22am

Alon, Tell us what you have in your system........ I just read this thread and I didn't see where you told us.....

What CC do you have , how many panels, what voltage and how many batteries?


Thread Summary

Posted by Alon

Feb 8, 2020 at 1:19pm

Thank you:)
So I have 2 panels, each 100w.
One 40amp controller, one 140amp deap circle battery.
One 12v refrigerator, few LED lamps.

What is CC?
And can you say if the light of the battery is blinking and I have E1 error, is it over charge, Or discharged?

What more information can I provide to help you help me.

Posted by tattoo

Feb 8, 2020 at 1:48pm


Feb 8, 2020 at 1:19pm Alon said:



Thank you:)
So I have 2 panels, each 100w.
One 40amp controller, one 140amp deap circle battery.
One 12v refrigerator, few LED lamps.

What is CC?
And can you say if the light of the battery is blinking and I have E1 error, is it over charge, Or discharged?

What more information can I provide to help you help me.


First off CC is the charge controller.... You have the same 40a CC that I started with and it worked great. Well if it's a rover that is..... Do you have a Tracer Meter MT-1? What are you checking your readings with?


Like the Admin/Renogy said the E1 code is low voltage...... What is your battery showing voltage with a voltmeter? What is the highest and lowest voltage you have seen?

Posted by Alon

Feb 9, 2020 at 12:45pm

tattoo Avatar

Feb 8, 2020 at 1:48pm tattoo said:


Feb 8, 2020 at 1:19pm Alon said:



Thank you:)
So I have 2 panels, each 100w.
One 40amp controller, one 140amp deap circle battery.
One 12v refrigerator, few LED lamps.

What is CC?
And can you say if the light of the battery is blinking and I have E1 error, is it over charge, Or discharged?

What more information can I provide to help you help me.


First off CC is the charge controller.... You have the same 40a CC that I started with and it worked great. Well if it's a rover that is..... Do you have a Tracer Meter MT-1? What are you checking your readings with?


Like the Admin/Renogy said the E1 code is low voltage...... What is your battery showing voltage with a voltmeter? What is the highest and lowest voltage you have seen?




Now I have 11v.
The highest I had was 12.8v
But in the last day something changed, I have now E3 error.
3 lights are on, battery, load, and the system error.

What can I learn from this?
Thank you

Posted by tattoo

Feb 9, 2020 at 1:21pm


Feb 9, 2020 at 12:45pm Alon said:


Now I have 11v.
The highest I had was 12.8v
But in the last day something changed, I have now E3 error.
3 lights are on, battery, load, and the system error.

What can I learn from this?
Thank you


Just as I had figured............


The best thing I can tell you to do is STOP killing your battery..............


Your using way more power than your making.......... You need more panels and a bigger or more batteries.........


At least now I know what your problem is...............

Posted by tattoo

Feb 9, 2020 at 1:24pm


Feb 9, 2020 at 12:45pm Alon said:



What can I learn from this?
Thank you


By the way do you happen to have a killawatt meter? If not you really need to get one because that will tell you how much power you are using.........


After thinking about it that won't be of any help as your using 12v appliances...........


What are you thinking now about the size of your system, and is it making sense now why your getting error codes? ?

Posted by Alon

Feb 9, 2020 at 1:30pm

tattoo Avatar

Feb 9, 2020 at 1:24pm tattoo said:


Feb 9, 2020 at 12:45pm Alon said:



What can I learn from this?
Thank you


By the way do you happen to have a killawatt meter? If not you really need to get one because that will tell you how much power you are using.........


After thinking about it that won't be of any help as your using 12v appliances...........


What are you thinking now about the size of your system, and is it making sense now why your getting error codes? ?



It's good one of us knows;)
What is E3 error means?
How can I fix it

Posted by tattoo

Feb 9, 2020 at 2:06pm


Feb 9, 2020 at 1:30pm Alon said:



How can I fix it


Stop killing your battery.......... You should NEVER let your battery get below 11.8v for very long..........  I don't like mine getting below 12v at all.........


What I would suggest you do if you can is take ALL of your load off of your system and see if your battery will come back or if you need to buy a new battery....


Let me know if that makes sense to you?

Posted by tattoo

Feb 9, 2020 at 2:24pm

Here is a chart you NEED to follow..............voltage-chart-2.jpg

Posted by tattoo

Feb 9, 2020 at 2:25pm

Oh by the way.......... The red is there for a reason...........

Posted by Alon

Feb 9, 2020 at 2:46pm

Tatto, thanks for the chart.
I will let now charge more and not use it until I see the correct voltage.

Do you have a chart for system errors?

Appreciate your help.

Posted by tattoo

Feb 9, 2020 at 4:13pm


Feb 9, 2020 at 2:46pm Alon said:


 Do you have a chart for system errors?

Appreciate your help.


Sorry I don't have a chart......... It should be in your manual if you have one.......... If you don't have one they are on the Renogy web site...........

Posted by Alon

Feb 10, 2020 at 12:58pm

tattoo Avatar

Feb 9, 2020 at 4:13pm tattoo said:


Feb 9, 2020 at 2:46pm Alon said:


 Do you have a chart for system errors?

Appreciate your help.


Sorry I don't have a chart......... It should be in your manual if you have one.......... If you don't have one they are on the Renogy web site...........



Thank you for all the help, the lights are now o.k, no error light, and all. Back to normal.

Really thank you for the time and help.

Posted by tattoo

Feb 10, 2020 at 2:16pm


Feb 10, 2020 at 12:58pm Alon said:


Thank you for all the help, the lights are now o.k, no error light, and all. Back to normal.

Really thank you for the time and help.


I'm pleased I could help you...............


Now let it charge for several days before you hook anything up to it............


Let me know if you see 13.8v in your battery..........


Have a good one............

Posted by Alon

Feb 13, 2020 at 1:26pm

tattoo Avatar

Feb 10, 2020 at 2:16pm tattoo said:


Feb 10, 2020 at 12:58pm Alon said:


Thank you for all the help, the lights are now o.k, no error light, and all. Back to normal.

Really thank you for the time and help.


I'm pleased I could help you...............


Now let it charge for several days before you hook anything up to it............


Let me know if you see 13.8v in your battery..........


Have a good one............



Today it was 13.7v.
Can it be over charge or the CC stop it when it's time

Posted by tattoo

Feb 13, 2020 at 2:28pm


Feb 13, 2020 at 1:26pm Alon said:



Today it was 13.7v.
Can it be over charge or the CC stop it when it's time


Your CC will stop it on it's own.............. It's not there yet........ Let me know when it goes to float mode........... Should be about 14.2 there about... Then it will drop back to 13.2....


Your getting there.....


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